Crossing the Streets in Saigon (for Saigon Tourists)

A friend of mine living in California is planning a trip to Saigon next month. She asked me whether she should worry about taking Malaria medication. I thought it might be useful to share my response to her with readers of Eating Saigon!:

Hi Laurie ~

My advice – Don’t worry about taking malaria medications. I guess, technically, there are still mosquitos somewhere in Vietnam that carry that nasty disease. But they (the mosquitos) seem to avoid all the popular tourist destinations. I think most of their breeding sites have been paved over for upscale resorts and souvenir shops. So unless your tour group is climbing a mountain somewhere in the Central Highlands or northern Vietnam, or wading deep into a Mekong swamp (not the usual Mekong tour), I wouldn’t worry about malaria (DISCLAIMER: Personal opinion based on a total lack of medical training 🙂 ). But, having some common insect repellent on hand is always wise to help ensure a comfortable tour.

But, the Emodium for Montezuma’s Revenge is always a smart move. I also always have a treatment or two of Cipro on hand in the unlikely event some more severe bacteria finds its way inside. It’s only happened to me twice in my six years living in Vietnam – but I was sure glad I could immediately start treatment without delay.

BUT, the real threat in Vietnam is crossing the streets of Saigon and Hanoi (and living to tell about it)!

It’s wise to understand the traffic “pecking order” on the streets. A general rule of thumb is: Whomever would suffer the greater injury (or death) in a collision should yield to the other! That is, cars yield to buses and large trucks, motorbikes yield to cars, pedestrians yield to ALL. The concept of pedestrian right-of-way is unknown in Vietnam. Traffic rules, traffic lights, one-way signs, and sidewalks for pedestrian use are all “advisory” and are frequently ignored. Traffic police are available only to furtively collect cash from defenseless drivers, NOT to manage traffic in any way.

But, there is a way to get to the other side of the street. First, do a 360 degree assessment of the size and speed of the vehicles in the on-coming torrent of traffic. Don’t challenge large trucks or busses. Be wary of automobiles. Here’s how to deal with motorbikes – SLOWLY, DELIBERATELY step off the curb. In spite of your gut telling you to freeze, SLOWLY, DELIBERATELY continue to move across the street. Motorbikes – like an oncoming school of anchovies swimming in the ocean around a foreign object – will swerve around you, barely miss you, and continue on. Step-by-step, SLOWLY, DELIBERATELY, move your way through the oncoming traffic torrent to the other side. NEVER, move quickly. NEVER step backwards. The anchovy school does not expect such motions and such unanticipated movements could disrupt the natural order of the traffic sea. If there are two of you, choose one person to “take the lead”, as in dancing! He/she who follows, MUST FOLLOW! That school of anchovies may not be able to deal successfully with two objects moving in different directions!

When you get to the other side, be proud, and have something great to eat! see Where to Eat in Saigon.