Enjoy Saigon morning Phở in the Bac Hai neighborhood

Phơ Hữu
58 Cửu Long
Bac Hai neighborhood
P.15, District 10

*****

I’m always mystified by folk who go to live in foreign “third-world/developing” countries for extended periods of time  – either for work or retirement or school – and proceed to surround themselves with expat friends, go to western restaurants, and gather at sports bars to watch western sports and movies.  In my way of thinking, it seems to defeat the purpose of being in the foreign country in the first place. And certainly it limits one’s life experience there, ability to know the local people, understand the local culture, and of course, to enjoy authentic local food.  But “judge not, lest yi be judged” 🙂

I can count my “western” friends here in Saigon on one hand (even if I were missing a finger or two). And as best I can tell, for those friends, I am one of the few fingers that they count me on.  True Vietphiles !

This morning I met up with one of those strange types, my friend Rick. The one benefit among Vietphiles, however, is that we could enjoy a conversation without asking for repeats, translations, checking dictionaries, or reverting to sign language.  I must admit, an occasional refreshing break from my more common exchanges with the majority of my friends here in Saigon.

Rick and I were able to compare notes on our recent experiences with semi-uncomfortable 7-hour bus rides to Nha Trang and Dalat, new local bus routes, the ever-changing Vietnam government visa rules (and the costs of working around them through local tour offices), and the best airfares between Saigon and California. But inevitably, we found ourselves discussing new and wonderful eateries in various Saigon districts.

All of this compelling conversation took place over a couple of cà phê sữa đá’s at one of the scores of fun cafes in the Bac Hai neighborhood of District 10. Today was one of the more steamy Saigon days – 35 degrees C (about 95 degrees F), so the tall glass of ice for the potent Vietnamese coffee and the shade from the small tree-covered streets of the Bac Hai neighborhood were more welcome than usual.

After two-hours of catching-up on “western issues”, it was time for lunch.  I recommended lunch at Phở Hưu, one of my longtime regular breakfast stops that I walk to from my apartment through Le Thi Rieng Park.  Both the phở and the stroll being very nice ways to start each day.  Rick was pleased to accept since he had not yet eaten there and it was just a one block walk from our cafe under the shade of trees.

OK, let me see if I can impress Rick.

I ordered, “Phở gà, thịt trắng, thịt không có da” (chicken noodle soup, white meat, no skin on the chicken meat). “Hai tô nhỏ” (two small bowls).

The young handsome Vietnamese waiter smiled and seemed to understand.  Of course, the truth about my language skills would be told by what actually arrived at our table. My phở arrived quickly, exactly as ordered!  Rick was impressed.  After waiting 5 minutes longer without his bowl of phở he became a bit less impressed.

OK – so I called the waiter over again and repeated “hai tô ” (two bowls).  It seemed to me that should have been obvious with two eaters at the table … but regardless, the second bowl arrived shortly thereafter.

In any case, the phở was delicious. Fresh, clean-tasting broth, good-sized chucks of white chicken meat, nicely cooked phở noodles, and a basket of fresh green herbs, lime wedges, and fresh chili peppers to add to the soup.  We washed it all down with trà đá (iced tea) and Rick picked up the bill, “tính tiền”  (bill please) for us, 64,000 vnd ($3 USD). Thanks Rick !

Rick headed off to the market and I headed back to my apartment to get on with the day’s chores.

Open from  6 am until 11 pm, it’s always a safe bet for very good phở – both phở gà (chicken) and phở bò (beef), always poplar with local folk, and only a few steps from scores of fun Bac Hai coffee shops.

Phơ Hữu
58 Cửu Long
Bac Hai neighborhood
P.15, District 10

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