Sampling “Real Vietnam” in the Mekong River Delta
Hai’s family sprung yet another surprise trip on us this past weekend. Come enjoy a few days at our nhà quê (countryside village) – tomorrow!
Ahhhh … ok, why not!
But, I told Hai, this time I’d rather not join the family group in the small bus. Let’s try a motorbike road trip to your family’s nhà quê in Vĩnh Long, in the heart of the Mekong Delta.
What an adventure it could be riding into the Mekong Delta! And, I thought, a good test-run for my future fantasy to travel the entire north/south length of Vietnam by motorbike. Perhaps a one-month travel adventure — rice paddies, rivers, ferries, hill towns, beaches, jungles and mountains. I’m ready!
This past weekend’s motorbike adventure was far more limited, but still an amazing adventure.
Off to the Mekong
In an attempt to avoid the heaviest Saigon traffic, we headed out of Saigon’s District 10 at 4:30 a.m. on one motorbike. (I’m still not prepared to take on my own bike until my shoulders fully recover from my rotator cuff surgeries – sorry Hai). Hanging on the back of Hai’s bike for what turned out to be a 6-hour journey would be stress enough on the shoulders.
The early morning traffic was light, then built quickly as the sun rose over the following two hours … but then became reasonable again as we rode further away from the center of Saigon. The vehicle fumes diminished (thank god for surgical face masks), the street chaos became less dense, and stands of banana trees and wide bright green rice paddies became more common 60 kilometers south of the city. Our long-sleeved shirts absorbed most of the highway’s dust and grime and sheltered us a bit as the sun burnt off the morning’s shade.
But, the BUTT! Oh, the BUTT! (It gets a bit sore after 5 hours of bouncing and jolting over Vietnam’s NOT so smooth streets and highways).
I need OFF this bike!
After 5 hours on the motorbike, refreshing chilled drinks were in order
… and 60 minutes of lounging were essential
We stopped at one of the zillions of roadside cafes for a bathroom break, a cool drink, and an hour in a hammock. A very wonderful way to begin enjoying Vietnam’s Mekong region!
The rest of the our weekend absorbing and enjoying a taste of life in the Mekong Delta is best told visually
Turning off the main highway and traveling several kilometers over narrow winding 1-meter-wide bike paths, and across a network of canals, sloughs and small rivers, we had great fun discovering the residential neighborhoods of Vĩnh Long in the Mekong Delta. Small boats of every shape and function, but no automobiles here – they simply couldn’t fit!
Mekong River Delta
LOOK! A hủ tiếu (noodle) factory! Let’s stop.
We smiled at the half-dozen hard-working young locals. Hai asked permission for us to look around. Their reaction was something between disbelieving, mildly annoyed, and intrigued by finding an ông tây (old white guy) in their midst. (We wouldn’t see another westerner for the entire 3 days we were in the countryside.)
Mekong River Delta – Hủ tiếu noodle factory
Mekong River Delta – Hủ tiếu noodle production
Mekong River Delta – Drying racks for hủ tiếu noodles
Mekong River Delta – Drying racks for hủ tiếu noodles
As it turned out, unbeknownst to me before arriving at our destination, we would be joining an annual celebration (together with scores of locals) honoring the founder of a small Buddhist pagoda, Chùa Long Tín, on the anniversary of his death. The pagoda is a 150 year-old ornate structure nestled among coconut palms and banana trees alongside a Mekong River tributary. We also would be sleeping and eating in the pagoda beside Buddhist monks and Hai’s family for the duration.
What a fascinating several days of ceremony!
What a wonderful several days of eating!
Vegetarian Food at Chùa Long Tín Buddhist pagoda
Vegetarian Food at Chùa Long Tín Buddhist pagoda
Vegetarian Food at Chùa Long Tín, including heo quay chay (vegetarian roast pork)
BBQ’ing local chicken in a “Mekong Webber”
Eating with the In-Laws – and trying to sit comfortably!
What a fascinating walk through the Mekong Delta Countryside!
Great fun strolling by vast rice paddies, through groves of qùa bưởi (pomelo fruit), and across monkey bridges with Hai’s family in the Vinh Long countryside.
Our walk across vast Delta rice paddies
A Few Challenges
Life in the Mekong does come with a few challenges. I will spare you the details on this food-focused website 🙂
Three days in the Mekong Delta. This is all you get, no instructions. Figure it out 🙂
Heading back to Saigon
If common sense (and my suggestion) had prevailed, Hai and I would have enjoyed another relatively cool, early-morning departure to begin our return trip from the Mekong countryside back to Saigon. Unfortunately, family pressure ruled the day. One last massive lunchtime meal together with the family was required. And large quantities of Vietnamese rice wine (hard liquor) and beer had to be consumed ceremonially, in a combination of both toasting one another and engaging in classic Vietnamese competitive drinking. A brief nap became essential after engaging in such family comradery!
Pushing off in the early-afternoon’s scorching sun into the heavy traffic set the stage for a grueling 6-hour motorbike trip home. Only Hai’s fascination with the scores of rice distribution facilities along the industrial route home made the ride tolerable.
Mekong Delta’s rice distribution industry
We stopped frequently to “talk rice”and get rice sample and prices for consideration as sources for Hai’s cơm tấm (broken rice) restaurant.
A great adventure in so many ways. If you get a chance to visit the Mekong Delta (preferably NOT on a large tour), don’t miss the opportunity. This was the REAL VIETNAM!
Welcome back. Have not seen any blog from you for days. I’ve been following your blog with much interest. Reading your blog is like being there almost.
I see that you have discovered a french colonial relics 😛 That’s Viet Nam.
Did you ever get a chance to visit any orchards in Vinh Long; the region is reknowned for their vast orchards, and water coconut ( dừa nứơc ).
What is that item that looks like pork meat in the last Vegetarian dish in the photo ?
You mentioned about Cơm Tấm, which is one of my favorite street food. Have you tried this place?
Quán Cơm Tấm Ma, 127/9B Đinh Tiên Hoàng, phường 3, quận Bình Thạnh
So happy to hear you enjoy my Eating Saigon blog! It’s even more fun to write! Yes, in fact we spent an afternoon strolling thru orchards of qủa bưởi, vast rice paddies, and crossing monkey bridges (I just added a video to the post on a fun bridge crossing with Hai’s family). That food item was heo quay chay (vegetarian roast pork). Didn’t get the full recipe, but involved layering various vegetable ingredients run through complex processes and using both steaming and frying. The textures involved were amazing!
Yes, It makes me drool just by looking at it. It must taste heavenly delicious! This is the first time I have seen something like that. I will actively hunt for it the next time I visit Viet Nam.