Bún Vịt
Hẻm 281/26 Lê Văn Sỹ
Tân Bình District
*****
Even after many, many years living and eating here in Saigon, once in a while, Hai and I uncover an eatery that stops us in our tracks with an OMGM (Oh my god moment)! We consider our meal, then look at each other – Can you believe this! This place is amazing! OMG, I love eating in Saigon!!
Such was the case the afternoon we pulled up our small red plastic stools in a local living room, down a long private alley in Tân Bình District at Bún Vịt.
Some weeks before, an Eating Saigon! reader had asked our advice where in Saigon he could find some really good bún măng vịt (a noodle, duck and bamboo soup).
Hmmn? I realized we’ve enjoyed some really excellent mì vịt tiềm (a noodle and braised duck soup) almost weekly at Mì Vịt Tiềm 03 in District 4. And I had absolutely LOVED my favorite breakfast in Hanoi from years gone by, bún mọc (a noodle soup filled with tender bamboo slices among the pork meatballs and pork innards) at Bún Mọc Hanoi. But, we hadn’t yet stumbled upon a good bowl of bún măng vịt, that would offer the very appealing combination of noodles, duck and bamboo here in Saigon.
Time to get to work! Our readers call. What a job!
We questioned our local friends, colleagues, and family. Where would we find the best bún măng vịt in Saigon?
A consensus quickly emerged … and we were on our way!
A small sign hung in front of the family house and pointed us down the narrow alley crowded with a dozen parked motorbikes. (Always a good sign!)
We found our way down the alley, around the back to the house entrance, through the hidden courtyard (now serving as a duck kitchen), and into the small family living room. There we found about 30 locals sitting around red plastic tables, chatting and enjoying their feasts.
Hai ordered 1/4 duck. The thigh quarter since we both far prefer dark meat to white (that’s where all the flavor is, of course). And an order of lòng vịt (duck liver, gizzard, heart, and blood cubes) to compliment our bún măng vịt.
The broth in the bún măng vịt was “quiet”. That’s Hai’s way of describing a subtly delicious flavor – not “loud”, screaming of sharp spices and intense flavors. The thick slices of crunchy bamboo added the perfect texture contrast among the soft rice noodles. And the generous portion of duck meat was chewy, bone-chipped, skin-fatted, moist, and incredibly flavorful. The duck was served on a bed of finely shredded cabbage, carrot, and dichon.
Then there was the platter of lòng vịt. Absolutely fabulous!
The accompanying dipping sauce, a blend of sweet quả quất, ginger, garlic, and chili, provided the perfect light, sweet & tangy contrast to the heavier flavors (and large quantity) of the duck meat and duck innards.
Wow! This is where the OMGM peaked.
In business for over 30 years, the 4 women here and the salt & pepper-haired man (carrying a big wad of cash) worked away chopping, hacking, slicing, and shredding duck and duck parts for one of Hai and my favorite Eating Saigon! adventures. Don’t miss this one!
The total cost of our meal – 158,000 vnd (a bit over $7 USD).
OPEN 3:30 -5:00 PM
Bún Vịt
Hẻm 281/26 Lê Văn Sỹ
Tân Bình District
They told Hai and I that they were open everyday. BUT,
When we feel too tired, we don’t open!
Closed or open during Tet, do you think? For how long shall we expect such family eateries might close in this period? Planning our eating strategy during Tet 2015 in Saigon!
I cannot be certain about this particular eatery. BUT, sadly I must tell you that 95% of family places in Saigon are closed for the Tet holiday as the owners and workers return to their countryside homes to celebrate the coming new Year with family and friends. A few “entrepreneurs” may remain open, but that’s not yet common. The closures range from 3-10 days after Tet.