The Amazing Food of Huế – in Saigon

Kim Long
80/68 Trần Quang Diệu
P. 14, District 3
028 3843 6498

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Last night, after many years exploring and enjoying literally hundreds of amazing culinary treasures on Saigon’s streets and in its small neighborhood eateries, I just might have stumbled upon a new #1 favorite (or at least a strong contender for that spot). An absolute treasure – Kim Long restaurant!

The traditional Vietnamese art that filled the entry patio and covered the walls of this small quiet restaurant wowed me as Hai and I jumped off our motorbike in a darkened alley and entered the imperial world of traditional Huế. And we hadn’t yet even sampled what would turn out to be the best, perfectly prepared food of Huế.

As always, Hai abandoned me and headed to the kitchen to strike up conversations with the chef and owner.

I strolled slowly past other diners, savoring each beautiful piece of art work in this art-gallery-wanna-be restaurant before sitting down to explore the menu.

I really wanted to immediately grab one of the beautiful pieces of art and carry it away to enjoy at home … but I digress (and I didn’t).

Hai eventually emerged from the kitchen and shared the tale of the restaurant.  Apparently, the current owner is the grandson of O Rớt, famous in Vietnam’s imperial capital some 50+ years ago for harboring the best traditional recipes of Huế’s classic cuisine.  Her daughter married an artist, Kim Long, and moved to Saigon in 1974, bringing with her her mother’s famous recipes.

The daughter served her food on the streets of Saigon for years, moving from location to location, until eventually she was able to open this current restaurant now owned and managed by her son, O Rớt’s grandson.

Fascinating! Now, let’s eat.

We began to review the broad offering of Huế delights and “negotiate” with our waitress. Amazingly accommodating, she agreed to split orders, combine dishes, substitute items, and basically allow us to create our very own mini-feast so that we could sample as many Hue specialities as possible.

OK, so the art was wonderful, the service excellent, but … What about the food? Seriously!

With my first bite into the bánh lá (rice cake with minced pork and shrimp in banana leaf), I knew for sure that life was still good.  Delicate, delectable, smooth, creamy … I’m not sure how best to describe the perfectly textured rice noodle encasing the subtly yummy ingredients.

Then came the chewy and delicious bánh lọc (tapioca cake with shrimp & pork steamed in banana leaf). The best I’ve had!

The plate of a dozen or so bánh bèo ngự bình (steamed rice cake with shrimp) arrived …  each little rice cake topped with a deep-fried crunchy bit of tasty pork skin. Again, Yum!

In spite of my dis-interest, Hai ordered a plate of Ốc Bươu Nhồi Thịt – “just two (2) please, not a plate of 8”.  Again, the waitress accommodated us.  I tried one, and I must admit, it was really good with its own special dipping sauce.

And the classic Huế dishes just kept on coming …

 

Totally, a wonderful dining experience – among the best ever in Saigon.  Our total cost – just 300,000 ($13 USD – $6.50 each!) We’ll be back soon for certain to continue our voyage through Kim Long’s menu, including Bún Bò Huế and other traditional soups of the central Vietnamese coast.

For sure when in Saigon, you must treat yourself to this wonderful dining experience.  OH, and an eating tip – be sure to ask your waitress which dipping sauce goes with which food item … it can be confusing.  But, honestly, even mixing the wrong sauce with the wrong food, it’s still a delicious and memorable eating adventure!

UPDATE – February, 2018: We visited here last week with 2 wonderful friends from Canada.   The restaurant was as lovely ever.  The art still gorgeous.  And the food still very nice.  The flavors seemed to have slipped just a notch … but I’m guessing that was an insignificant blip in day-to-day variations.  Still a “must-try” eating adventure.

Kim Long
80/68 Trần Quang Diệu
P. 14, District 3
028 3843 6498