Hàn Phố – Mì Quảng at its Best

Hàn Phố
14/40d Kỳ Đồng Street
P.9, Q.3
08.22470550
0913106700

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SETTING: It’s a new year (2018 Western calendar). It’s Hai’s birthday (he won’t let me give you his exact age, but he’s not in his 30’s anymore). It’s just 24 hours into our return to Saigon after many months away.  And now, it’s time to eat some really excellent Vietnamese food!

Will Hàn Phố fit the bill?

ACTION: There we were on our motorbike heading for Mì Quảng Hoi An in District 10, one of my classic all-time favorites. But, then the possibility of heading to Mien Ga Kỳ Đồng popped-up. I loved the chicken noodle soup there a few years back, but wondered whether that “evil” woman was still there. (You can read more about her here).

We were debating where our next eating adventure would be as we dodged pedestians inching across Saigon’s motor-bike packed streets, and occassionally jumped to ride the sidewalks around the congested traffic. So many amazing eating options here in Saigon. But which favorites to re-visit after having been away for many months? … and in which order??  Oh, and of course, which would better serve our Eating Saigon! readers?

“Wait, I know!”, I shouted. “You’ve never tried the mì quảng place near Mien Ga Kỳ Đồng.“

“YES!” Hai jumped at the suggestions, swirved the bike and 5 minutes later, we zoomed through the lovely little winding alley and pulled up in front of Hàn Phố – a place I really enjoyed some years back, but that Hai had never tried.

Liên, the owner, immediately ran up to us with a big smile and said to me “I remember you … you still look the same – you haven’t changed after all these years.”   I think I love her.

We sat at the window, covered with greenery and showing a cage housing a friendly large bird (let’s call him Mr. Chim for now). He was to keep a close eye on our rice crackers and noodles as we ate.

In my opinion, there’s only one thing to order here – the really, really delicious mì quảng.

Liên, originally from Hoi An (the birthplace of mì quảng), has been making that excellent central coast noodle dish since she arrived here in Saigon over 20 years ago. And she clearly hasn’t forgotten her origins nor her original mì quảng recipe secrets.

The flavorful broth was the highlight of the dish – just a tad spicy with a combination of rich and deep mellow flavors. A mountain of ingredients filled the soup bowl – shredded banana flower, chicken, slices of pork, a richly marinated dried shrimp, peanuts, and a large hard-boiled chicken egg. The hearty soup was served with a large toasted rice cracker, a small bowl of “optional” Hoi An chili sauce, and a large pile of fresh Vietnamese herbs.

Such a culinary treat! And clearly the right decision today! Hàn Phố fit the bill for sure.

If you get a chance, find your way to this delightful little alley and enjoy a really yummy lunch or dinner at this simple and comfortable family-run eatery. And tell Liên that Eating Saigon! sent you.

UPDATE – January, 2020:  Still a good place to come for a great bowl of mì quảng.

Hàn Phố
14/40d Kỳ Đồng Street
P.9, Q.3
08.22470550
0913106700