Discovering Cam Ranh

Less than twelve months ago,  Hai and I purchased the 1.5 acre parcel of land on a beautiful hilltop on the Cam Lập Peninsula overlooking the Southeast Asia Sea. Well, now that I think about it, only Hai’s name is on the “red paper” (Vietnam’s deed of ownership document). Oh well, congratulations Hai!

In any case, less than a week after our most recent return to Vietnam, it was time to have the land surveyed … a process that turned out to be far more grueling than we planned. Thorny brambles everywhere, with giant boulders and cavernous drop-offs to navigate. Blood flowed, tempers flared, and exhaustion won the day.  But, in the end, 21 points of latitude and longitude had been duly marked, showing us clearly ( from a Google Earth perspective) what we actually owned – a truly stunning piece of Vietnamese geography!

With that accomplished, the remaining time around the Cam Lập Peninsula would be devoted to seeking out amazing local foods. Hello Cam Ranh!

The following day, we hopped on our motorbike and headed for the small quiet city of Cam Ranh, just 45 minutes north of our new land, for our culinary exploration. Who knew that before the day was over, we’d have time (and room in our bellies) for four special Cam Ranh eating adventures!

CHICKEN

Our first stop was Han Châu. This local eatery was recommended by two women on the street when Hai stopped the motorbike and demanded to know their favorite place for lunch. It was a Gà Chí … meaning select your chicken. Not as in select from the menu how you want your chicken prepared. But as in, select which edible victim you’d like to be plucked, prepared and served to you. Walking to the cage of potential victims, I briefly considered whether this was the moment to become a vegetarian. Instead, I deferred to Hai to make the foul selection (he’s a chef, after all!)

Hai made the selection – a feisty gal. Half of our chicken would become Vietnamese chicken salad, half deep-fried. Her liver would be presented in a side-dish of sticky rice.

All was excellent! The chicken salad, a tangy and delicious treat tossed with crunchy onions and fresh herbs. The deep-fried chicken parts were a tad chewy (as most Vietnamese folk seem to prefer) and a bit spicy. If you find your way here, be clear on your preferred level of chili! The crunchy sticky rice / chicken liver dish was my favorite. Mild, and delicious with a great crunchy texture.

The peaceful garden setting, the swinging hammocks, and the excellent fresh food prepared by owner/chef Duc, a really lovely man, made this a memorable part of a great day in Cam Ranh. In business for over 11 years, Han Châu is open everyday from 11:00 am – 6:00 pm.

And one final note: I usually don’t discuss bathrooms in my food reviews. However, when one finds the most spotless and pleasant rural restaurant bathroom in Vietnam, it’s worth a mention.

COFFEE

[VERIFIED CLOSED – OUT OF BUSINESS – JANUARY 14, 2023.]

Next, it was time for a coffee respite. Our waitress at Han Châu told us we had to enjoy our afternoon coffee at a very special café, Đồi Mơ (Dream Hills) … off we went.

This classic, lovely Vietnamese coffee shop was spread among 5 or 6 levels. Each had its own special view – Cam Ranh’s mountains, the South China Sea, lovely flowering bougainvillea vines, and attractive local patrons – all to enjoy with a variety of Vietnamese coffees.

FISH SOUP

[VERIFIED OPEN AND AS DELICIOUS AS EVER! – January 14, 2023]

BUT, the feeding had only just begun! Next, there was the “world famous” bánh canh chả cà eatery that seemingly has no real name nor obvious address. Just word-of-mouth fame and a finger-point directional location. And superior bánh canh chả cà soup! The perfectly clear and richly subtle and flavorful fish stock. Firm udon-like noodles. And deep-fried blended fish cakes. Just excellent – even on a full tummy.

Finally, it was time to head out of town – depart Cam Ranh and head back to Cam Lap , 45 minutes away.

RICE CAKES

BUT WAIT!

Hai spotted a road side Bánh Căn street food vendor. Two young women, three tables, a few blue plastic stools, a charcoal oven, and lots of fresh seafood ingredients. Here we go again! Maybe just one or two Bánh Căn’s.

Perfectly created rice cakes. Crispy outer shells and spongy innards, topped with delicious and tender shrimp, squid and quail eggs. OMG! We had ten!

A perfect day on the central Vietnam coast. A full day of exploring, a full day of eating Cam Ranh – a lovely, not-yet-fully appreciated Vietnam destination – both scenically and culinarily.

And, we’ll be back often … now that we are sort of “locals” here!

Han Châu
Tổ Thuận Lợi
Cam Thuận
Cam Ranh
039 9282 890

Đồi Mơ (Dream Hills)
Cam Lộc
Cam Ranh
098 678 79 78

Bánh Canh Chả Cà
Cam Ranh

Bánh Căn
Đường Lê Đuẩn
Cam Lộc
Cam Ranh